Anyone who has ever shopped for a diamond before, might have heard the mention of the "4C's"" color, clarity, carat (or carat weight), and cut"or the four characteristics that determine a diamond's rarity and value. Understanding them can help you understand why diamonds of equal size may not be of equal value. It's the synergy and the many different ways that each of the 4C's can be combined that is the key to understanding what makes each diamond unique and valuable.

COLOR While most diamonds appear to be white, virtually all have slight traces of color. Evaluating a diamond's color for grading purposes is done by measuring the degree to which a diamond approaches colorlessness. Gemologists and jewelers describe the color of diamonds on a letter scale beginning with D (colorless) and moving through the alphabet to Z. The degree of colorlessness is not easily discernible to the untrained eye. D, E, and F color grades are more expensive because they are rarer. However, well cut diamonds with good clarity of all color grades can be equally dazzling as it is the interplay of the 4C's which determines each individual stone's unique beauty. Deeply colored diamonds in shades such as pink, blue, and yellow are known as "fancies" and are especially rare and valuable.

CLARITY Practically all diamonds contain naturally occurring internal blemishes called inclusions, or a diamond's natural birthmarks (these can look like tiny crystals, feathers, or clouds). However, many are microscopic in nature and can only be glimpsed under powerful magnification through a standard 10-power jeweler's loupe. Diamonds with the fewest inclusions are graded as VVS1 or VVS2; those on the other end of the scale are graded I1 or I3. The fewer inclusions the rarer the stone.

CARAT indicates the weight and therefore the size of the diamond. One carat weighs 0.2 grams, or 1/142 of an ounce. Jewelers, however, refer to stones using points: 100 points equal 1 carat; 50 points, a half-carat; 25 points, a quarter-carat and so on.

CUT is perhaps the most important of the 4C's because a quality cut is what helps to unleash a diamond's fiery sparkle. A well cut diamond, regardless of shape, releases the fire and brilliance of a diamond through the proportion of its 57 or 58 facets (tiny planes that create angles), allowing the maximum amount of light to be reflected through the diamond. In order to maximize this fire and brilliance, a diamond cutter must place each of the stone's facets and angles, which act as light-dispersing mirrors, in exact geometric relation to one another. Diamonds that are not cut to proper proportions (too deep or too shallow) lose light that spills through the side or bottom.

Cut is also quite different than shape. While cut is a technical quality, determined by the skill of the diamond cutter, the matter of shape is a personal choice. The round (brilliant) is often the most popular of all shapes, with the majority of brides-to-be receiving a round stone. Other popular and traditional shapes include the marquise, pear, oval, emerald, princess, and heart shape.



How to clean your diamond jewelry: Caring For A Girl's

Best Friend

A diamond may be the hardest substance known to man, but to keep it looking its best, it needs proper care and maintenance. This is especially important if you wear your diamond every day. To keep daily build-ups of soap, cosmetics, and skin oils from dulling your beautiful jewelry, follow any one of the following procedures to care for your gem:

PROFESSIONAL CLEANING: This is the best option and also gives you the opportunity to have your retail jeweler check your diamond's mounting to make sure prongs or other settings are not weak or loose.

COLD WATER SOAK: A mixture of half cold water and household ammonia will work well if your ring or diamond jewelry is allowed to soak for 30 minutes. Lift your ring out and clean gently around the front and back of the mounting with a small, soft brush. Give the ring a second swish through the solution and let dry on a paper towel. No rinsing is necessary.

OVER-THE-COUNTER JEWELRY CLEANERS: Ask your jeweler for a liquid jewelry cleaner made especially for diamonds and follow the instructions on the label. A good cleaner is designed to remove loose dirt and dissolve any oils or residue on the stone.

DETERGENT BATH: The simplest cleaning method for your diamond is to soak your jewelry in a small bowl of warm, sudsy water combined with any mild liquid detergent. Use a toothbrush or other soft brush and gently brush the ring around the setting while it is in the water. After its bath, put the ring in a fine wire strainer and rinse thoroughly under warm running water (the strainer provides protection for the ring from slipping down the drain). Pat your ring dry with a soft lint-free cloth.

ULTRASONIC CLEANING: This method involves a special machine that uses a high-frequency vibration to clean the ring. The ring is enclosed in a small cup with cleaning solution and in just a minute, any dirt and oils are removed from the stone. The method can be done by your jeweler or at home after purchasing an ultrasonic cleaner.